Cardinham and Warleggan

A strange day as, not only did the clocks go back, but Christine had to be at Truro for 8 am to take part in a radio phone in on disability and the churches. Despite the early start we were only ready to start our walk near Cardinham shortly before 1 o'clock!





It was still rather wet and miserable as we walked from the downs to the village of Cardinham and the ancient church which boasts one of the oldest Celtic crosses - around 800 AD.

We then took to footpaths, initially across fields but eventually through some especially pretty woodlands. The clouds cleared as forecast and, with the brilliant autumnal colours at their finest, the sunshine made for a most pleasant afternoon.

At one stage we followed a bridle path which began well enouigh but ended very narrow and little more than a stream bed. We were grateful for our boots which yet again proved to be waterproof and helpful when walking over rather stony ground.






At last we arrived at Warleggan - time was pressing and we could not look inside the church as Evensong was still in progress. The walk back to our start point was along narrow country lanes with little traffic. It was as well that we could make good progress as 5 pm is now the latest finishing time.

Otterham, Warbstow and Treneglos

Last Sunday we began at Otterham, parking close to the church.

The footpath from the church was clearly marked with a county council post - except it soon turned out to be the wrong direction! However, we found the right direction and descended through fields to a small stream where a waymark pointed consistently with the map. Alas, the path was not onlt overgrown but the alleged footbridge was no longer. It was with some difficulty that we crossed the stream and found our way to the top of the next field where we emerged, somewhat later than expected, onto agood track!

After a slight mis-map read we opted to change our planned route, taking in Warbstow next, rather than last. A church that has been threatened with closure from time to time is in a tiny community but not far from Warbstow Cross, slightly larger. We sat on the grass outside for our picnic.

Interesting to note that churches (such as Otterham) which are on one cluster, are generally open to visiotrs, whilst those in the next cluster (Warbstow and Treneglos on this walk) are closed. Notices claim that they are obliged to do this because of thefts from next-door churches - even if they remain open!

We had hoped to take in Tremaine but, after most of the way there, we agreed that tje time spent crossing the stream at the outset meant that it was going to be too long - so we returned to the main road and headed for Splatt. Here we took a look at a much-photographed former railway station, with the space between the platforms incorporated into a garden.

An easy walk to Treneglos followed but it too was closed. From there we headed back towards Otterham, the route initially following an unmettaled road but the last part was on country lanes.

Valency Valley

We began our walk at Tresparrett and followed a footpath which, at first, was in excellent condition - hardcore had been put down and the hedges trimmed quite recently. Alas, this was not for long and we soon found ourslelces descending a steep hill, across a field from the previous waymark, to one of the tributaries to the Valency Valley - scene of the notorious Boscastle Floods, well documented on television by Tiger Apsect as well as news crews. After searching left and right we eventually discovered in some undergrowth the footbridge across but then lost the trail altogether.

The weather was poor and visibility much reduced by the very low clouds. After climbing up out of the valley we could, for some time, find no sign of the track we were heading for until we were able to match up the field boundaries with those on the map!

We we emerged onto the country lane near to Lesnewth we found a notice - dating back to the flood - stating that the footpath was closed officially for 21 days (or perhaps a little longer!) A similar noticed was still to be found at the start of a path from Lesnewth churchyard, despite a brand new footbridge across the deep stream bed.





On then to Minster church which was actually flooded and closed for some months for restoration which including removing and replacing all of the pews.





The bridle path down the hill to the Valency Valley itself is most pretty as is the walk up through the valley - despite passing a sign saying that it was only 0.25 m to St Juliot - an estimate at least out by a factor of 2!






From here it was a straitforward walk along country lanes back to Tresparrett - despite the amount of moisture in the air - almost amounting to rain at times - we ended updrier than we had expected.

St Neot

Sunday was the best day for walking for a long time: bright and sunny, although not too hot and it was the first time this year that we felt able to wear shorts!

We began at the car park near Golitha Falls and followed narrow country lanes to reach the village of St Neot just over an hout later. The church stands alongside the busy London Inn - once an important staging post for the coaches (horse drawn, of course) to and from London. Inside the church, the famous stained glass windows are immediately apparent and most impressive.

Outside, a dead branch can be seen hanging over the top of the tower. This is replaced every May in a commemoration of the Civil War when this village remained loyal to the King.

After lunch in the churchyard, we continued along the partly way marked Two Valleys Walk. After some further lanes we struck out across open moorland for much of the remainder of our walk, leaving the way marked walk perhaps an hour later. One stretc h we had to navigate from the map as indications on the ground were scant, but we arrived at the road through the valley from Jaimaica Inn on target.

A unexpected tea room faced us as we reached the road - a temptation that could not be passed by! It was very pleasant indeed, sitting in the riversode garden, soaking up the sunshine so that we stayed rather longer than we should!

Off again and the next landmark was Siblyback Lake, a reservoir, where we passed the foot of the dam before climbing up to a footpath at the the level of the top of the dam. The reservoir, after all the rainfall, was at least full - unusual for this time of the year!

From there is was back across to the lake's access road - a route that took us along an old road/track, rather over grown but with the thickest swarm of midges we have ever seen (even in Scotland). Finally, back to the car park along futher footpaths. Only one church this week.

Duloe, St Keyne and Herodsfoot

After a long break whilst we undertook our canal journey, we resumed our tour of Cornish churches on Sunday, beginning in the West Looe valley, near Pelynt. After walking down part of the valley we struck off, following an old 'road' steeply uphill to emerge eventually close to Duloe church, which is about half a mile from the village centre.

We walked into the main part of the village - it still has a Post Office and village shop - before finding a bench in the small recreation area to sit and eat our lunch. Aftwerwards we took a look at the Stone Circle. Although this is belived to be of ancient origin, comparable with those at other Cornish places such as the Minions, it was only re-discovered a few decades ago, by which time the stones had fallen over and were covered by a large field boundary wall. They have been restored to what are believed to be their original positions, marking the eight main compass points.

On then across country to Causeland in the East Looe River valley, having come steeply down hill through a newish woodland - at least it is not entirely marked on our OS map! We followed the valley alongside the branch line for a short distance before climbing up towards the main village of St Keyne (its station lies down in the valley alongside Paul Corin's Magnificient Music Machines, a museum dedicated to old organs and other mechanical musical instruments.

About a third of a mile before the village we came to the ancient St Keyne Well, with a legend dating back to the seventh century CE. Started by a princess (at thew time, Cornwall had a pol;uation of but a few thoiusand and was ruled by several 'kings') who declared that following a marriage, whichever of the couple first drank water from the well would rule the household. This led to a traditional extra to weddings held in the village church: as soon as the couple were married they raced down to the well to drink from it. Needless to say, the man almost always won the race. Until, that is, on one occasion when the newly wed husband dashed off as usual but soon realised that his bride was not following, Turning round, he saw her sitting on the church step, drinking water from abottle which she had filled from the well!

The church itself was closed - the parish forms part of the Liskeard benefice and seemed rather downbeat. Most of the members of its electoral roll come from outside the parish!

Our route then followed a narrow country lane, eventually very steep down into the tiny hamlet of Herodsfoot. The church here was built in 1850 to serve the rapidly growing population based on the local mine and gunpowder factory. The population of the parish is now only 160 Although the church is in a pretty poor state, there is obviously an ambitious programme of restoration with a new slated roof in 2005. Internally it will take a lot of imaginative work to make it really useful.

Finally, we followed the West Looe River valley back to our starting point. Despite the weather forecast, this had been one of the few parts of Cornwall that was dry all afternoon.

Yestreday, we began at Treverbyn, parking in a convenient lay-by just a few metres from the church. Although the church was
locked (in common with most in this area it seems - in contrast to other parts of the county) the gravestones
suggested that it was built in the 1840's - no doubt to support the growing industrial population of the nearby
china clay workings. The churchyard itself is only a short distance from one of the former clay quarries.

Our route followed a number of very attractive footpaths - many appeared to be old roads as they had good banks or
walls on either side. Occasionally we emerged from the footpaths, perhaps to cross a road, when it was surprising
to see just how close we were to the clay workings.
On just one of these we found a grassy bank beside the track to sit for our lunch - with a splendid view of
Goonbarrow in the distance!
There is, at times, such a network of official and unofficial paths that it is easy to take the wrong one - or at
least that is our excuse for ending up under the road bridge at Bugle, before back-traking about half a mile to go
where we wanted!
After a short walk along the road between Roche and Bugle - passing a splendid recent conversion of a former china
clay drier works into B&B accommodation - we took to an overgrown footpath. Before long it was almost choked with
untreated Japanese Knotweed - alas we could do little but struiggle through it and hope that we did not spread it
any further - but soon meregd onto a track (which we could have taken from the road it later transpired!)

This brought us to the foot of Roche Rocks with its old hermit's chapel or folly perched on the top. (A ladder up
the face of the rock gives the more intrepid visitor a marvellsous view from the top!) Soon after we arrived at
Roche. Again, the church was, alas, closed.

Unfortunately, Christine's foot was complaining - exacerbated by standing for long periods at the Royal Cornwall
Show the day before but we spotted a bus timetimable. Just for once it was a route that operates on Sunday - every
two hours - and just happened to go right past where we had parked. Discretion seemed the wisest move and so,
following a pleasant sit in the churchyard, we boarded the otherwise unused bus. The driver's takings were not
enahnced as we managed to find our rarely-used bus passes and trvaelled without further payment!

Yesterday was generally very low cloud - at sea level it was dry but as soon as our route took us up to the base of the cloud, it was rather damp. However, it never became so wet that we needed to take our waterproofs out of the rucksack.

We began at Par, with the chapel-of-ease called the Church of the Good Shepherd, in the main part of Par, close to the railway lines and china clay works.

The rail track from Par Docks runs inland and quickly joins the branch line to Newquay. A good footpath follows the route and that of a small river and, we think, the remains of the canal once built to the foot of the incline from the Treffrey Viaduct tram network. As the path crossed the track at one point, our predictions about a train being unlikely as two had alr4eady passed in the past 15 minutes (it is not exactly the busiest of routes) we spotted a Virgin train making its way slowly down to Par at about 20 mph - or less!

The path emerged at Tywardreath Highway and from there it was a short walk to St Blazey Church. From there we walked uphill and around to Par church. Although from the main road this feels as if it is at the top of a hill, it is actually art way down - as you soon discover when approaching it on foot. Thye cloud base was sufficiently low to leave the top of the steeple very unclear!

After eating our lunch in the hcurchyard, we continued through Tregrehan Mills and then up a hill to cross the newish Distributor Road before arriving at Boscoppa on the outskirts of St Austell. The church here meets in Bishop Bronscombe Church of England primary school.

It was downhill, through Bethel, almost all the way to Charlestown - this is one of the main Forward in Faith bases in Cornwall. It is set a little back from the harbour, once important for the export of china clay but now more popular with visitors as a base for a small fleet of sailing ships, wich appear in many films and television dramas.

After a plesant cup of tea and teacake, the last part of the walk followed the coastal path, through Carlyon Bay (why cannot the planners allow the development to continue? Wrecking objections from local residents serve only to leave this beach little better than a disaster area whilst official inquiries continue)

Fowey and Tywardreath

We walked on Saturday this week as I am going to Torpoint this evening to sing Evensong with the Washaway West Gallery Choir. As it happened, yesterday was also foreast to be the better weather - despite this there was a little drizzle in the air as we parked at Par Beach and set off along a coastal stretch of the Saints Way to Polkerris. Dropping down into the harbour, we found a cafe for a late morning coffee.





Afterwards, we walked back up a wooded valley to the spinal road, emerging close to Tregaminion, a chapel-of-ease belonging to Tywardreath parish and originally founded by William Rashleigh in memory of his wife.


Still following the Saints Way we arrived at Readymoney beach - ready for our lunch. We found some seats (which Christine recalled from the last time walked the Saints Way about three years ago! or it might have been when doing the coastal path, only two years ago) As we sat with a good view of the mnay yachts in the river mouth, a china clay ship left port, escorted by the pilot boat.





We continued through the town, calling at the church of Finbarrus before passing the Bodinnick ferry landing and then inland, still following the waymarked Saints Way, until we arrived at the isolated village of Golant.





The railway line, still used to carry china clay to Fowey, separates the village from the river. The church is up a very steep hill from the centre of the village.





Now, it was a straightforward run to Tywardreath, once at the top of the hill at Castledore it was a good downhill. The House on the Strand is the interpretation of the name, reflecting the fact that once boats could come upriver to the village, but no longer. Although rather a backwater today, this was formerly quite an important place, shown by the substantial size of the church.

From here it was not far, although up and down a sharp hill, back to Par beach where, alas, the cafe had already closed!

Lanteglos-by-Camelford

This is one of the churches we visited before setting up the blog. I am adding it at this time as a test of Blogging directly from Picasa

Lansallos and Lanteglos-By-Fowey

This week's walk was shortened as a result of having Andrew as a visitor for the weekend and there was a priority on fixing the communications facilities for the upcoming canal journey! On the other hand, his speed of walking led us to a longer distance in the time than might have been the case left to ourselves!

Having parked at the National Trust car park not far from Pont, we wlked along lanes and across fields to Lansallos church. This building is still undergoing restoration following an arson attack. The roof now appears to be complete (about half of it had to be fully replaced) but the rest of the inside is still a working site! Meanwhile, services are held in the adjoining Sunday School.

Next, we walked the short distance down to the coastline and continued in the westerley direction, stopping shortly afterwards for our lunch picnic.

This is a very beautiful stretch of coast, but you are always either steeply ascending or steeply descending. There is little time on the level to recover!

With time catching up on us we headed back across a three fields to the spinal road that leads to Polruan, but took the narrow lane to Lanteglos church. (Known in slightly wider circles as Lanteglos-By-Fowey to avoid confusion with the Lanteglos near Camelford)

From there is was a simple task to follow the old track down to the road near Pont and back along the road to the car park.

Lanlivery and Luxulyan

Today's walk included the two 'clay' parishes of Lanlivey and Luxulyan - although Lanlivery aligns more to Lostwithiel and the clay towns of St Blazey and St Austell.

We parked in the Luxulyan Valley, close to the Treffrey Viaduct and walked for about an hour to Lanlivery - mostly uphill. However, it was perfect walking weather: sunny with a slight breeze and enough haze to take the burning quality out of the sun - although this did mean the longer views were not as good as they might have been.

Spurning the opportunity for a drink at the pub (which Christine knew from a recent visit for lunch with a friend) we continued to Luxulyan where, after a look inside the church, we sat on one of the benches outside for lunch. (The pub turned out to be a little distance from the church - odd in many ways but it is alonside the small station on the Newquay branch line)

In fact, by the time we had had our lunch and then walked down to the pub Christine no longer fancied a drink of cider preferring instead to aim for tea at the Eden project.

After a short distance along a side road we saw a sign for the new(ish) Clay Trail - suitable for horses, cycles and walkers. Signpost suggested about 1.75 miles - although this turned out to be to the entrance to the long drive to the Visitor Centre. The trail took us through an area once a clay pit but which finished extracting china clay in 1971 and has now been landscaped for community use.

Once we arrived at the entrance to the Eden Project, the path for walkers and cyclists (not pushbikes as Christine told me off for saying!) the first sign said that it was another mile to the Visitor Centre!

Eventually we arrived and settled down to a welcome cup of tea (or in my case two cups) plus a small slice of cake. Refreshed we set off back up the hill to continue along the route of the Cornish Way No3 (cycle route) and then down to Tywardreath Highway, where to Newquay Branch Line sets off up the Luxulyan Valley.

Therw had been an indication on the Cornwall County Council rights of way map that there was a footpath (with no right of way) alongside the railway line and indeed we were able to locate it and walk up to Ponts Mill without having to take the longer route along the A road. The railway line followed the route of both a canal and a tramway that Treffrey built (at different stages) as part of his amazing complex network of leats, tramways and other haulage routes, maily to access granite from neat Luxulyan.

After climbing most of the steeply sloping former tram route (still marked with the granite sleepers) we struck off along a lower path, pleasantly level which eventually broght us back to the car park, shortly after passing under the huge Treffrey Viaduct (which was built both as an aqueduct (which still is) and a tranway.

Bodmin Team area

This week we had to walk on Saturday, rather than Sunday, which gave us the opportunity to tackle a slightly longer route - about 14 miles in the end. We began at the start of the Camel Trail in Bodmin and followed the river to Boscarne Junction where we headed to the village of Nanstallon.



This is a small daughter church which is linked with Lanivet, although equally close to Bodmin. From there we walked along narrow lanes evntually arriving in Lanivet, now a substantial village, albeit with a main A road through the centre. The church is set just away from the traffic. Time for lunch!



Further narrow lanes followed, crossing the main A30 Bodmin bypass at one stage. The sight of Lanhydrock estate (National Trust) was especially welcome as we anticipated tea and cake of cookie outside the Stable Tea Room.



The church is alongside the main Lanhydrock house and was effectively the chapel for the house! After enjoying our mugs of tea, it was quite a struggle to start off agian, but the wonderful, if unseasonable, sunshine encouraged us. We followed several woodland paths, first through the outlying parts of the Lanhydrock estate and then down to Cardinham woods. We emerged - not quite where we intended after one of the steepest paths we have encountered - in fields close to Callywith. From here it was downhill all the way into Bodmin and the large parish church where singers and audience were gathering for an evening performance of Rossini.

Lerryn Area

Today we started our walk at Lostwithiel, parking alongside the river. It is hard to imagine today, with the river so shallow, that in the past, sea-going boats were able to come up-river from Fowey to collect tin from this once-important Stannary Town.

Our route took us to St Winnow, arriving along the river side walk to see a number of yachts being prepared for the summer. This is a beautiful church in a beautiful setting. Inside there are some interesting old carved pew ends as well as a board over the door that lists some ancient benefactors, in the days when 'the poor' depended on the luck of which parish they lived in.

The footpath along the river contines down the River Fowey to St Winnow Point where it turn left to follow the River Lerryn up to the village that bears its name. The tide was coming in but there was just enough time to cross over the stepping stones as the water lapped at the top!

Across the other side we walked back down the other bank of the River Lerryn to the hamlet of Cliff where we took to lanes and footpaths steeply uphill to St Veep, typically on a hilltop location.

With the prospect of a cup of tea we opted for the direct route back to Lerryn - in about a third of the time! Sitting alongside the river was relaxing and it was not a little difficult to stir ourselves for the final stage, back to Lostwithiel.

We retraced out route back along the Lerryn bank to find a valley path which eventually brought us back to the ridge road into Lostwithiel. before crossing the railway and the ancient river bridge, there was time to look at St Saviours Church Centre. Although now part of the town of Lostwithiel, it was originally in the parish of St Winnow.