St Eval and St Ervan

Although the day was forecast to be wet, we set off hopeful of some dry weather - it fact it never rained although remained quite overcast until mid afternoon.

We parked in St Merryn village and set off along a farm track which the map promised would become a footpath. At the farm a local person pointed us in the right direction, although there were no way marks. We soon relaised we were not in the correct field but were able to get back on track with a way mark at a small bridge over a stream. Alas, the path here was completely obstructed, mainly by brambles and other undergrowth. Mike's arms soon showed the consequences of not taking brambles seriously! As a result we had to find another route through adjacent fields, emerging at the correct - and waymarked - point on the next road.

Here we found that the small gap between the road and the start of the next footpath - historically this must have been an ancient track, going by the alignment on the map - was not registered on the Definitive MAp and the landowner has very clear Private signs to deter access. We took an alternative by road towards Penrose. On the edge of the hamlet we saw two friends, Gordon and Julie, who kindly invited us in for a cup of tea and a chance to see their lovely garden, complete with babbling brook!

We were now well into lunch hour but pressed on to St Eval church where, close on three o'clock, we sat in the churchyard to have our rolls. We have visited the church several times before, but not on foot, usually when accompanying Trevanion House guests. The church is famous for its associations with the RAF. Much of the old village was demolished in wartime to allow the construction of the airfield but both the church and the rectory survived just outside the perimeter taxiways! However, the association has continued and a number of quite recent memorials have been installed, including the stone at the gate and the stained glass window inside.




A short stretch brought us to a farm entrance where we anticipated a reasonable footpath walk across fields to St Ervan. We were advised by the farm occupier that this path did not exist - or at least it was obstructed or removed by the RAF decades ago! We decided not to insist, despite its presence on the Definitive Map!

This then forced us on to the current 'village' of St Eval - a collection of houses that were once the married quarters for personnel stationed at the airfield (now a transmission station). Long since sold off for civiliam use, there is still no mistaking their origins.

Two paths should have been possible from the point but, although we could see clearly where they should have run, they were so badly overgrown and obstructed that, after wasting nearly an hour trying to follow first one and then the other, we opted for the certainty of the long way round by road, eventually reaching St Ervan. There is just a cul de sac road to the church and but a few houses surrounding it.


A pleasant church that was the inspiration for Betjeman's Summoned By Bells, even though the bell at the time could not be hung in the tower (for safety reasons) at was hit like a gong, hanging from a tripod stand by the church gate! Disabled access to the church is definitely not easy!

Down the road a hundred metres, across a ford and we should have had a choice of four fooitpaths. We found only one and this brought us out on the road just after Rumford, leaving us with quite a long walk back, with rather more cars on the road than we would have liked.

Cardinham and Warleggan

A strange day as, not only did the clocks go back, but Christine had to be at Truro for 8 am to take part in a radio phone in on disability and the churches. Despite the early start we were only ready to start our walk near Cardinham shortly before 1 o'clock!





It was still rather wet and miserable as we walked from the downs to the village of Cardinham and the ancient church which boasts one of the oldest Celtic crosses - around 800 AD.

We then took to footpaths, initially across fields but eventually through some especially pretty woodlands. The clouds cleared as forecast and, with the brilliant autumnal colours at their finest, the sunshine made for a most pleasant afternoon.

At one stage we followed a bridle path which began well enouigh but ended very narrow and little more than a stream bed. We were grateful for our boots which yet again proved to be waterproof and helpful when walking over rather stony ground.






At last we arrived at Warleggan - time was pressing and we could not look inside the church as Evensong was still in progress. The walk back to our start point was along narrow country lanes with little traffic. It was as well that we could make good progress as 5 pm is now the latest finishing time.

Otterham, Warbstow and Treneglos

Last Sunday we began at Otterham, parking close to the church.

The footpath from the church was clearly marked with a county council post - except it soon turned out to be the wrong direction! However, we found the right direction and descended through fields to a small stream where a waymark pointed consistently with the map. Alas, the path was not onlt overgrown but the alleged footbridge was no longer. It was with some difficulty that we crossed the stream and found our way to the top of the next field where we emerged, somewhat later than expected, onto agood track!

After a slight mis-map read we opted to change our planned route, taking in Warbstow next, rather than last. A church that has been threatened with closure from time to time is in a tiny community but not far from Warbstow Cross, slightly larger. We sat on the grass outside for our picnic.

Interesting to note that churches (such as Otterham) which are on one cluster, are generally open to visiotrs, whilst those in the next cluster (Warbstow and Treneglos on this walk) are closed. Notices claim that they are obliged to do this because of thefts from next-door churches - even if they remain open!

We had hoped to take in Tremaine but, after most of the way there, we agreed that tje time spent crossing the stream at the outset meant that it was going to be too long - so we returned to the main road and headed for Splatt. Here we took a look at a much-photographed former railway station, with the space between the platforms incorporated into a garden.

An easy walk to Treneglos followed but it too was closed. From there we headed back towards Otterham, the route initially following an unmettaled road but the last part was on country lanes.

Valency Valley

We began our walk at Tresparrett and followed a footpath which, at first, was in excellent condition - hardcore had been put down and the hedges trimmed quite recently. Alas, this was not for long and we soon found ourslelces descending a steep hill, across a field from the previous waymark, to one of the tributaries to the Valency Valley - scene of the notorious Boscastle Floods, well documented on television by Tiger Apsect as well as news crews. After searching left and right we eventually discovered in some undergrowth the footbridge across but then lost the trail altogether.

The weather was poor and visibility much reduced by the very low clouds. After climbing up out of the valley we could, for some time, find no sign of the track we were heading for until we were able to match up the field boundaries with those on the map!

We we emerged onto the country lane near to Lesnewth we found a notice - dating back to the flood - stating that the footpath was closed officially for 21 days (or perhaps a little longer!) A similar noticed was still to be found at the start of a path from Lesnewth churchyard, despite a brand new footbridge across the deep stream bed.





On then to Minster church which was actually flooded and closed for some months for restoration which including removing and replacing all of the pews.





The bridle path down the hill to the Valency Valley itself is most pretty as is the walk up through the valley - despite passing a sign saying that it was only 0.25 m to St Juliot - an estimate at least out by a factor of 2!






From here it was a straitforward walk along country lanes back to Tresparrett - despite the amount of moisture in the air - almost amounting to rain at times - we ended updrier than we had expected.

St Neot

Sunday was the best day for walking for a long time: bright and sunny, although not too hot and it was the first time this year that we felt able to wear shorts!

We began at the car park near Golitha Falls and followed narrow country lanes to reach the village of St Neot just over an hout later. The church stands alongside the busy London Inn - once an important staging post for the coaches (horse drawn, of course) to and from London. Inside the church, the famous stained glass windows are immediately apparent and most impressive.

Outside, a dead branch can be seen hanging over the top of the tower. This is replaced every May in a commemoration of the Civil War when this village remained loyal to the King.

After lunch in the churchyard, we continued along the partly way marked Two Valleys Walk. After some further lanes we struck out across open moorland for much of the remainder of our walk, leaving the way marked walk perhaps an hour later. One stretc h we had to navigate from the map as indications on the ground were scant, but we arrived at the road through the valley from Jaimaica Inn on target.

A unexpected tea room faced us as we reached the road - a temptation that could not be passed by! It was very pleasant indeed, sitting in the riversode garden, soaking up the sunshine so that we stayed rather longer than we should!

Off again and the next landmark was Siblyback Lake, a reservoir, where we passed the foot of the dam before climbing up to a footpath at the the level of the top of the dam. The reservoir, after all the rainfall, was at least full - unusual for this time of the year!

From there is was back across to the lake's access road - a route that took us along an old road/track, rather over grown but with the thickest swarm of midges we have ever seen (even in Scotland). Finally, back to the car park along futher footpaths. Only one church this week.

Duloe, St Keyne and Herodsfoot

After a long break whilst we undertook our canal journey, we resumed our tour of Cornish churches on Sunday, beginning in the West Looe valley, near Pelynt. After walking down part of the valley we struck off, following an old 'road' steeply uphill to emerge eventually close to Duloe church, which is about half a mile from the village centre.

We walked into the main part of the village - it still has a Post Office and village shop - before finding a bench in the small recreation area to sit and eat our lunch. Aftwerwards we took a look at the Stone Circle. Although this is belived to be of ancient origin, comparable with those at other Cornish places such as the Minions, it was only re-discovered a few decades ago, by which time the stones had fallen over and were covered by a large field boundary wall. They have been restored to what are believed to be their original positions, marking the eight main compass points.

On then across country to Causeland in the East Looe River valley, having come steeply down hill through a newish woodland - at least it is not entirely marked on our OS map! We followed the valley alongside the branch line for a short distance before climbing up towards the main village of St Keyne (its station lies down in the valley alongside Paul Corin's Magnificient Music Machines, a museum dedicated to old organs and other mechanical musical instruments.

About a third of a mile before the village we came to the ancient St Keyne Well, with a legend dating back to the seventh century CE. Started by a princess (at thew time, Cornwall had a pol;uation of but a few thoiusand and was ruled by several 'kings') who declared that following a marriage, whichever of the couple first drank water from the well would rule the household. This led to a traditional extra to weddings held in the village church: as soon as the couple were married they raced down to the well to drink from it. Needless to say, the man almost always won the race. Until, that is, on one occasion when the newly wed husband dashed off as usual but soon realised that his bride was not following, Turning round, he saw her sitting on the church step, drinking water from abottle which she had filled from the well!

The church itself was closed - the parish forms part of the Liskeard benefice and seemed rather downbeat. Most of the members of its electoral roll come from outside the parish!

Our route then followed a narrow country lane, eventually very steep down into the tiny hamlet of Herodsfoot. The church here was built in 1850 to serve the rapidly growing population based on the local mine and gunpowder factory. The population of the parish is now only 160 Although the church is in a pretty poor state, there is obviously an ambitious programme of restoration with a new slated roof in 2005. Internally it will take a lot of imaginative work to make it really useful.

Finally, we followed the West Looe River valley back to our starting point. Despite the weather forecast, this had been one of the few parts of Cornwall that was dry all afternoon.

Yestreday, we began at Treverbyn, parking in a convenient lay-by just a few metres from the church. Although the church was
locked (in common with most in this area it seems - in contrast to other parts of the county) the gravestones
suggested that it was built in the 1840's - no doubt to support the growing industrial population of the nearby
china clay workings. The churchyard itself is only a short distance from one of the former clay quarries.

Our route followed a number of very attractive footpaths - many appeared to be old roads as they had good banks or
walls on either side. Occasionally we emerged from the footpaths, perhaps to cross a road, when it was surprising
to see just how close we were to the clay workings.
On just one of these we found a grassy bank beside the track to sit for our lunch - with a splendid view of
Goonbarrow in the distance!
There is, at times, such a network of official and unofficial paths that it is easy to take the wrong one - or at
least that is our excuse for ending up under the road bridge at Bugle, before back-traking about half a mile to go
where we wanted!
After a short walk along the road between Roche and Bugle - passing a splendid recent conversion of a former china
clay drier works into B&B accommodation - we took to an overgrown footpath. Before long it was almost choked with
untreated Japanese Knotweed - alas we could do little but struiggle through it and hope that we did not spread it
any further - but soon meregd onto a track (which we could have taken from the road it later transpired!)

This brought us to the foot of Roche Rocks with its old hermit's chapel or folly perched on the top. (A ladder up
the face of the rock gives the more intrepid visitor a marvellsous view from the top!) Soon after we arrived at
Roche. Again, the church was, alas, closed.

Unfortunately, Christine's foot was complaining - exacerbated by standing for long periods at the Royal Cornwall
Show the day before but we spotted a bus timetimable. Just for once it was a route that operates on Sunday - every
two hours - and just happened to go right past where we had parked. Discretion seemed the wisest move and so,
following a pleasant sit in the churchyard, we boarded the otherwise unused bus. The driver's takings were not
enahnced as we managed to find our rarely-used bus passes and trvaelled without further payment!